Miranda Lauzon
First Blog Entry
Food, Identity & Ancestry
What is Identity and How Does it Relate to Food?
Home cooking obtains a prominent aspect of comfort, which many of us associate with pleasant memories and cherished traditions; family recipes also play a key role in culinary traditions. Family heritage and identity shape these traditions; recipes, techniques and tips are passed down from generation to generation, creating and maintaining strong ties to ancestry and native, old-world customs. Additionally, the foods that we grew up eating greatly influence our dietary preferences and shape our tastes throughout our lives.
Below (link): National flags made from traditional food of each country.
Below (link): Hardlox Jewish Food and Heritage Festival. This video demonstrates the connection between food, identity and ancestry.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieQGBQHMhT0
My Experiences With Food, Identity & Family Ancestry
Both my mother and father were born in and grew up in Barre, Vermont. However, their family ancestry is immensely different. Although their heritage is unique to one another, their ancestry is very common in this region of Vermont. My father is French-Canadian and my mother is Italian and Lebanese. These diverse cultures made for unique culinary traditions in my home; growing up I was exposed to many different foods that have constructed my pallet throughout the years. My parents, grandparents, aunts and uncles all enjoy cooking and entertaining, so food has always been a dominant feature in family traditions. Perhaps the most significant tradition in my family is the tradition of meat pies (tourtière, in French) on Christmas Eve. This is a traditional French-Canadian recipe that French immigrants brought to Canada in the late 19th century. Both of my father’s parents are from Canada and have always identified themselves as French-Canadian. Because of this, my father has always instilled that identity in my brother and I, which we are proud to hold. Every Christmas Eve, my grandparents make over a dozen meat pies for the family to take home; this dish is also a main staple of our Christmas Eve dinner. Because there is a large population of French-Canadians in my hometown (and Vermont in general), my grandparents have always had access to the necessary ingredients to prepare this dish as originally and traditionally as possible.
Above (photo): A photo I took of traditional Lebanese food prepared by my family and I. My cousin Audra and I spent all day finely chopping parsley for the tabouli over lots of laughs and a few glasses of wine. In my family, food is a tradition that brings us all together.
Below (link): Traditional French-Canadian meat pie recipe (directions also listed in the text for your convenience).
Directions: How to Master Making Meat Pies
Ingredients
2 pounds ground pork, 1 medium onion, finely chopped, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 cups water, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground cloves (or more to taste), 3 cups mashed potatoes, Penny's Piecrust, 1 tablespoon milk
Instructions
In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, combine pork, onion, salt, and water. Simmer gently, stirring often, until all liquid evaporates, about 4 hours. Stir in spices. Add potatoes and beat well to combine thoroughly. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a pie plate with one crust. Spoon in pork/potato mixture. Add top crust and flute the edges. Brush the top with milk and prick with a fork. Bake 30 minutes.
Case Study: A Spanish-American Woman Living in Vermont
However, access to indigenous ingredients is not a commonality for all ethnicities. While conducting research for this blog entry, I came across an article about a Spanish-American woman who also grew up in Barre, Vermont. There is a significantly scarce population of Spanish-Americans in Barre, and because of this access to traditional food was/is extremely uncommon. In the article “Growing Up Spanish in Vermont,” Elisabeth Ramon-Bacon describes her experiences regarding culinary tradition. Ramon-Bacon’s mother, father and brothers (Ramon-Bacon was born in the United States) immigrated to Barre in 1914 from Santander, Spain to pursue the economic opportunities that the granite industry provided. Ramon-Bacon describes her mother’s cooking as “extraordinary.” However, she emphasizes the issues regarding the lack of traditional ingredients. “All the European women, especially the Spanish, were faced with problems when they couldn’t find the ingredients they were accustomed to using in the daily preparation of meals. There were many things that weren’t available in local markets. Neighborhood ethnic grocery stores slowly began to appear, but until then housewives had to substitute and improvise.” (Ramon-Bacon) Spanish-Americans in Barre struggled to maintain strong ties to Spanish culinary traditions due to the lack of indigenous ingredients and cultural diversity. Moreover, Ramon-Bacon also states that, “There were few restaurants in Barre and none that offered the food Spanish immigrants were accustomed to.” (Ramon-Bacon) Ramon-Bacon’s Spanish identity became melded and Americanized due to the lack of food options. “Our Americanization was helped along in certain ways. When the grown-ups were having something that we children didn’t particularly like, my mother would surprise us with steamed hot dogs and rolls.” Although she and her family found it difficult to maintain culinary traditions, they were able to maintain their identity though speaking Spanish at home, especially during family meals.
Above (photo): Taken in 1926 in Barre, Vermont, Elisabeth Ramon-Bacon poses for a portrait with her family.
Food in Place
Ramon-Bacon’s experiences regarding food and identity parallel Gustavo Esteva’s article “Re-embedding Food in Agriculture.” In this article, Esteva explains and explores the meaning and cultural significance of comida, a term unique to Spanish-speaking individuals. Comida is food in place. Comida is not merely a means of acquiring calories, but rather a social event that engages friends and families harmoniously around a source of nourishment. In this article, Esteva explores the complex relationship between food(s) as a form of socialization. Esteva claims that, “…Life is in fact organized around such fires, the center of kitchens, the source of comida.” Esteva recognizes that for many Spanish families, including Ramon-Bacon’s, food and tradition are almost synonymous. Although Ramon-Bacon grew up lacking many of the necessary ingredients of Spanish cuisine, her family improvised to keep their traditions alive, instead of assimilating and losing their ethnic identity. Moreover, during mealtime only Spanish was spoken; for Ramon-Bacon’s family this was a way to maintain cultural traditions while connecting these cultural traditions to culinary traditions, what Esteva would classify as comida.
Below (link): Gustavo Esteva’s blog.
Above (photo): Gustavo Esteva, Mexican activist and a strong advocate of post-development.
Works Cited:
Esteva, Gustavo. (1994) “Re-embedding Food in Agriculture.” Culture and Agriculture. (48), 2-12.
Ramon-Bacon, Elisabeth. “Growing Up Spanish in Vermont.” Vermont Historical Society. Web. 18 Oct. 2015. https://vermonthistory.org/images/stories/articles/greenmountaineer/growingupspanish.pdf.
“Memere Rousseau’s Tourtiere.” Yankee Magazine. Web. 18 Oct. 2015. http://www.yankeemagazine.com/recipe/memere-rousseaus-tourtiere-meat-pie
Photo of Gustavo Esteva: http://redefineschool.com/gustavo-esteva/